08 June 2023

Another night in the hills: towards Conglog

Last weekend I had done an absolutely gorgeous mini hike. And the weather was still stunning. I wanted to do another one! And I figured I would be able to leave a bit earlier. So I didn’t do any of the options I had left over from last time; I went for a slightly longer walk.

I had walked up the old tram track from Cwmorthin to Rhosydd many times (including in the middle of the night), but I had never turned right after getting there. I had many times stood there and decided I should change that. And this might have been the day for it! Especially in the dry weather; the terrain there can get a bit swampy. And these days, the most unexpected terrains held your weight and kept you dry. 

I left about 15:30. I figured that that way I would get there with some time to spare, but late enough so that there would be space on the parking lot. And that worked out! I effortlessly parked up. And I immediately got a bonus; I bumped into old acquaintance Jason, who was at work with Go Below. It was good to see him! And then I was on my way up. It was 16:15, and still quite hot!

Starting on the track to Cwmorthin 

By the old chapel I bumped into a group of young men. That wasn't quite how I had imagined things. I just want to be on my own (or with company I brought myself) in nature. I'm not there to be anywhere near a whole bunch of blokes who are undoubtedly lovely, but also very noisy, and shrouding themselves in clouds of weed smoke. I passed them, and was certain I would lose them upon reaching Rhosydd. And I did! They headed for the ruins. 

The chapel from a distance 

Looking back on the Rhosydd ruins

When I walked on, heading for the first lake (Llyn Cwm Corsiog), I could still hear them behind me. Luckily there was a big landscape in front of me I could disappear into. And after a while I got to the first lake. It was beautiful!

Llyn Cwm Corsiog

View on Moelwyn Mawr with the spoil heaps of Croesor on its flank

It was still quite early. I decided to walk on to Llyn Conglog, which had been my preliminary goal. That meant going up the ridge from the first lake. I came past a small unnamed lake I recognised; I had been swimming in it with Kate a few years ago! Good memories.

When I came to Llyn Conglog I decided it might not be ideal. But there were more options! So I walked up the ridge to the left of it, and had a look. I decided that the other side of the ridge was prettier. I might want to sleep by Llyn Coch, so I kept walking. This choice was a bit repetitive; the lake I had had a dinner by, and a bath in, the week before had also been called Llyn Coch (Red Lake). The Welsh are not always original with names. And neither lake was unusually red! 

Early evening selfie by Llyn Coch

The first thing I wanted to do was eat dinner, but I needed water for that. And I tend to not to take it from lakes. And I know that is a bit weird; I totally do take water from streams coming out of lakes, so it's the same water. But I stuck with my habit. I went to the little stream that, according to the map, came out of the lake. However; not that day it didn't! But I figured if I would follow it downstream at some point it would become a stream, and it did. And I was quite struck by the view.

I decided to just have dinner there instead of right by the lake. And so I did! I tried my third Tent Meal: Moroccan couscous. It was really good! And I drank tea.

Dinner time

Then it was time to go and have a little swim in the lake. I grabbed my towel and went back. I think I only swam some 7 m out and back, but that was enough! I do it for freshness, not exercise. And after I dried myself off I put on my warmer clothes. I had walked up in shorts and T-shirt, but walked back in trousers and jumper. And back by my stove I quickly added a down jacket. I boiled some more water as I was thirsty.

Slightly later selfie with warmer clothes and the sun vanishing behind the ridge 

I again spent the evening reading some newspaper and writing some blog drafts on my phone. Things I probably would have done at home as well! But now I did it with an amazing view. It really does revive me, these nights away.

Tent under evening sky

I had intended to go to bed early, but it is light so late! It is a bit of a pity to leave that landscape when you can still see it. But sleep is important too. 

I slept well, as it wasn't very windy. And I got up to have breakfast while slowly the valley filled with sunshine again. I pondered how to get back; with a bit of a detour back to Rhosydd and then down the track, or over the ridge and down through the spoil heaps of Cwmorthin? I decided on the latter. This way I was covering some of the same terrain as I had done with Kate these years ago.

It was this dry! Normally you can’t stand on this

Cwmorthin and Wrysgan seen from above

Along the way I did my standard stops: one for brushing teeth, and one for coffee with cake and putting shorts on. The second one was already quite close to the track! So not much later I was back at the parking lot. Another successful mission!

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