03 March 2012

Tourist in shame

"So what are you going to do now?" I had just told Dick, my former PhD supervisor, that we had aborted the mission of chemically analysing my ash samples. I said something about reading articles. He swept aside that idea; "you're only in Edinburgh once! You should go and explore it." And he had a point.

How did he end up telling me that? Both he and Simon, my second supervisor, had moved to Edinburgh, working at the university there. When I was visiting anyway I took the opportunity of reliving old days by meeting up with these men. Unfortunately I had to bring them bad news!

I heeded Dick's words. I went back to the lab, got my files off the computer there, had a chat about emperical observation in the classic world, stone-cutting, languages and a few other things with the lab technician, and went back to my hotel. There I put on my walking boots and set off for my first target: Craigmillar Castle, a ruined castle built through the centuries, but in use since the 14th or 15th century. It stood there, forgotten by the world and overshadowed by its much more famous neighbour, on walking distance from my hotel. It could boast on having been the scene of important moments in Scottish history; it was here Mary Queen of Scots went after the birth of her son, and it was here that some noblemen swore to get rid of her husband.

I bought a ticket and walked in. It was beautiful! I explored the oldest, central tower, the encircling walls added later, and the more modern residential buildings inside these walls, and everything else there was to see. All in splendid isolation. There was nobody else! I spent around two hours there. No other human soul entered that entire time...



Later that day I met up with Dick and Simon again. I hadn't seen Dick (except for earlier that day, and the day before) since Emma's thesis defence, and Simon since my own defence! Dick hadn't changed a thing, and Simon had even gotten younger in the time passed. Curious what he'll be like in another 5 years! Dick took us to what had been his local pub in his early career days. A classic one, with thistle wallpaper. It was nice to catch up.

When I was out of the lab anyway, I took the opportunity to visit the National Museum of Scotland. A right eclectic place! Quite fascinating, though I had hoped to learn more about national history.

The museum occupies a beautiful building that breathes enlightenment

They know how to get one fascinated - they had a pumping engine!

Every national museum needs a dinosaur skeleton.

I lastly explored Calton Cemetery and Calton Hill; they sure have no lack of volcanic plugs here. And then it was time for a last pint, a last meal, and then the journey back...

I accidentally met a demonstration against cuts. Well, nobody likes cuts. I felt quite right wing when they walked past...

Old Calton Burial Ground, with behind it the Governor's house; the only structure still standing of what was Calton Gaol


Calton Park proper, with Nelson's memorial tower

From here you have a good view on the Crags of Holyrood Park; Holyrood Palace can also be seen, on the left.

A late afternoon view over the city: a goodbye to Edinburgh!

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