16 November 2013

Bye Rob, take care

In October he had his viva. In November he flew to Canada for his first job as doctor Rob. I'm proud and happy! He's my first PhD student, and he happens to also be a dear friend. I hope he'll land on his feet there on the other side of the Atlantic. And I'm sure he'll do well!

Before he left he sent Roland and me some presents to remember him by... I got a set of earrings and a pendant, made of snail opercula... I'll wear these with pride! Take care Rob, I'll be thinking of you!


PS for more info on what these are look here

14 November 2013

Back into Jenga

The river is down, the caves are dry! After weeks of doing some digging-for-the-sake-of-digging we could go back into our normal venue Jenga Pot, where we know the digging might actually get us somewhere. For some weeks, there had been so much water down there there was no way we could go down there. But now the coast was clear. Or at least clear-ish. What's prozaically known as "the slops" was still blocked; too much water had brought too much silt in. But we could at least get to it! And clear it out. So we did.
 
My first task was lie flat on my belly in a narrow tunnel, have drag buckets full of slop pushed in my direction, dragging these out (backwards) and attaching them to a rope. Others would then haul the bucket up and out, empty it, and send it back. But then tactics changed, and Laura tried to burrow straight though, and I became redundant. I went up the rift a bit, and found a new job; Chalky decided the rift was not deep enough and started to send buckets full of slop up on his own initiative. Now it became my job to get them off the rope at the top of the vertical bit, and hand them to Handshake who would send them in the direction of the exit. How many ropes, pulleys and people that took I don't even know; in a cave you rarely have an idea what's beyond the person behind and the person in front of you. But I was impressed by how much of a well-oiled war machine it was! If the place doesn't flood in the meantime we might be able to get through next week. I won't be there, but I keep my fingers crossed! And maybe by the time I get back, we can get all the way to the end again...
 
The big karabiner to from which I'd unhook the drag buckets

Looking down to where the buckets come from. It's not only foggy, it's also a bit smoky; not only because of the cigarette habits of some of the chaps, but possibly also because there was a fire outside, and some people think it's funny to chuck smoking embers down the shaft...

07 November 2013

Swamphike 2013



Find yourself a wet and soggy destination. Visit it during the wet season. What do you have then? One of the newer traditions of my group of hiking friends. Two years ago we visited Dartmoor in October/November, last year we did the Cairngorms in October, and this year we chose the North York Moors. On Dartmoor we had been wading through paths; normally one would walk on these, but we had chosen such a wet time there often was some four inches of water on them. In Scotland we had been properly rained away. What would this year bring? It would be a short hike, as the company could only be in England for a short while, but a lot can happen in a few days. 

We would have a small group; last year we had Roelof, Erik, Viking, Henco, Maaike, and Hugh, but the first and the last couldn’t make it this year. But five is still a good number. And this time they came by boat! Erik has a snazzy new car that can hold four people plus luggage, and bringing the vehicle would make getting to and from the start point a lot easier. So on a Thursday morning I heard the sound of an engine, which heralded the arrival of my friends! They were a bit startled at having gotten there; it turned out they had left with little preparation, and had wondered when they came off the ferry whether they actually had bothered to bring my address, or my phone number… but it had worked out! 

I made coffee, and we arranged the last bits. Did we have a sensible number of pots and pans? And did we have oil? And a first aid kit? When all was clear we plonked the bags in two cars and drove off. Somewhere around 2PM we parked the cars. And set off. As it was already late we only walked for about a kilometre before we already stopped for lunch. In the sun! That was a first – normally we have our first lunch in the pouring rain. But I can get used to this! Nice to be hanging around with all friends! Especially in a beautiful  landscape. And it was so nice and sunny Erik decided to send provoking texts to big absentee Roelof; a habit he kept all trip through. Only to find out later Roelof’s phone had already been broken for a month…

Starting in the middle of the Moors

Never seen before: first lunch in the sun! 

After lunch we continued along the old railroad, being slightly puzzled by the cat litter-like constructions we saw along the path. The mystery was solved when we reached a pile of plastic bags on a clearing – they contained bird feed! So they were making things a bit easier for the grouse, which we flying up, making their spiffing sounds, all the time. I love that sound! 

After some dozens of grouse we reached to the little path that would take us down into the valley – our route started on the ridge east of Farndale, go along it, cross over, then go south for a while, then go south again, and then back north to the cars. We stumbled through the reeds and the heather as there was no path, until we came to a nice old tree. We wondered if we should go on from there; it was getting dark, and from the tree it would get steeper and less suitable for pitching tents. So we called it a day! We had walked no less than six kilometres. Maybe even seven. But now it was time to bring the beer out! Henco and Maaike had decided that as we didn’t need much food for only two days, they had plenty of space for some good Belgian beer! And after the beer the whisky came out. And then the stoves, for cooking curly kale. A swamphike classic! Henco tried out his new wood burner, which we decided not to use at it worked a bit too well, so we cooked on old-fashioned whisperlites in the end. And after coffee it was time to go to bed. It had become cold! 

 Henco's wood-burner worked better than expected

The wind and the rain swept the tent, but I had faith all would be well. This tent has seen worse. I did have to defend my place – I shared my tent with Viking, something his wife had festooned with some suspicion. After twenty years! Maybe she’ll trust me by the time I’ve known Viking for 40 years. Note to self: go camping with him in 2033 to find out! 

 Our campsite

In the morning it was bright and sunny. Lovely! We had luxurious breakfast, and set off. Down into Farndale! And out the other side. Before the hike, Viking had wondered if Farndale should perhaps not be avoided as it was so much more civilized than the surrounding moors, but its bucolic bliss made him change his mind. Maaike saw plenty of opportunity to use her plethora of cameras, some of which seemingly work-holed straight from the early Bronze age. She would take analogue pictures, develop and print these herself, and then scan them in in order to share them with us. I see the beauty, but I prefer to plonk them straight onto internet from the memory stick…

Four intrepid hikers

Farndale


Soon we entered the moorland again, on the other side, and went all the way to the top of the ridge on the other side. It was a broad, even track! Suddenly we travelled at speed. So much so we soon went down into the valley again. And out the other side! All the way the question whether it is better to call a container for things such as tents a “foedraal” or rather the more prosaic “zakje”, kept us entertained. The answer, of course, is that one should never use “stuff” when one could use “paraphernalia” instead; just to pick an English example. 

Unavoidable group picture! Erik, Henco, Viking, Maaike and me. By then it had finally become a bit swamp-like.

At the start of the moorland we had a last lunch. And we were only some three kilometres, as the crow flies, away from the cars, while we had hours to spend still, so we headed south, to have a slightly longer walk. That allowed us a view into Rosedale with it industrial heritage – I loved it! And upon getting back to the cars we ditched the bags, drove to the pub, and then walked for another hour. Very beautiful! And then the pub beckoned. We had hardly deserved a hearty pub meal, but sometimes one should abandon one’s Calvinism and just seize the moment. And once back in York, the drivers could join the exhausting of my beer (and whisky!) stock. 

Pub dinner - and these were only the starters...
 
Given that I now live in a city worth scrutinizing, we had just that planned for the next day. We saw the Minster, the Shambles, and the city walls. And then it was time to see the inside of a pub for a solid lunch; that would save the travellers having to have expensive and unappetising  ferry-food. And then it was time to stuff all people and bags back into Erik’s car, and wave them goodbye! The end of swamphike 2013, the swamplessest swamphike ever! 


Father-daughter bonding

My stepmother took some pictures when she and my dad were visiting a while ago. And one of them is, I think, the sweetest picture ever taken of me and my dad. So it gets its own blog post!


Father and daughter

05 November 2013

PSMSL 80

Could anyone have failed to notice that a renowned body like the Permanent Service for Mean Sea Level has turned 80 this year? I thought not. I headed to Liverpool to celebrate by means of attending the anniversary conference. I had my poster with me. And was ready for talks by the finest in sea level science; the tide gauge people, the sea level reconstructors (of which I am one), the modellers, the glaciologists (these fluctuations in sea level have to come from somewhere) and the coastal management folk. It was very interesting! And it was a good time to catch up with people from the past, the present and the future. From the distant past came Robin Edwards, whom had been a colleague in my Amsterdam days, from my sea level days came the likes of Jason Kirby, and the delegation from my present was made up of Tasha, Roland and Tom. And who knows who will feature in my future!

 The workshop was held at the Victoria Gallery and Museum; a beautiful venue! Here a nice still life with the queue for coffee during the break...

One of the Three Graces being gracefully lit at night

04 November 2013

Visiting the Dee Estuary

The Permanent Service for Mean Sea Level is 80 years old. That asks for a celebration! What is the PSMSL? It's 3.5 people associated with the National Oceanography Centre, who check tide gauge data, make them available, try to make sure more tidal data is recorded, answer questions from the general public, and several other things. It's a valuable institute for everybody who works with, or wants to know about, sea level. I use their data a lot! And I thought a meeting in Liverpool would be nice. So I registered for the PSMSL 80 workshop, and while I was at it I included the field trip that it started with.

We would gather at the Liverpool waterfront. Phil Woodworth of NOC and PSMSL (who has an MBE!) showed us how the waterfront had developed, where the old dock had been, where the old tide gauges were, where the father of tide measurements; William Hutchinson, had lived, and showed us a series of his tide measurements that had been chiseled into the pavement. Very exciting! It's always good to trace what you're doing back into the past.But after that it was time to go into the field. Not too far, though; this was not supposed to be a proper mud-everywhere-fieldwork. So we drove to a pub next to a salt marsh, where Andy Plater told us about the marsh in question. It was very new, and had come into existence due to human interference with the tidal channel that brought the river Dee all the way to Chester. And he talked for at least fifteen minutes before we retreated to the pub for a lunch of over 1.5 hours. One can take a leasurely approach to fieldwork from time to time!

 Phil seems to be pointing out Guy Wöppelmann to everybody in what I think was Canning Dock, while Andy Plater takes a picture

During lunch I was lucky to share a table with illuminati of various career stage; at the head of the table (of course!) was David Pugh, one of the big names in British sea level research (and another decorated man). We also had NOC's Mark Tamisiea, and we had our very own Tasha, and a man who looked more at ease in the blustery English autumn than one might have expected from his nationality; Saudi Yasser Abualnaj, and an almost-finished PhD in tidal modelling; Mark Pickering. It was a stellar configuration!

After lunch, though, we were expected to do at least something to deserve our lunch. Andy and his PhD student Tim Shaw took a core from the marsh, just to show those unfamiliar with such activity what is involved with such things. Non-geographers can ask rather useful questions! Fortunately we were able to answer all in a satisfying way - or at least that was my impression. I would think that, wouldn't I?

 Andy and Tim have taken a rather beautiful core; Phil seems satisfied, but Svetlana Jevrejeva is clearly not convinced yet. Who would have thought!

The last venue was the village of West Kirby, which is in need om some solid sea defenses, and of which Andy pointed out the more and less successful interpretations. And under a nice pink evening sky we climbed back into the coach, and headed back to Liverpool. It hadn't been a very trying field day, but it had sure been enjoyable!

03 November 2013

Liverpool revisited

A conference brought me back to Liverpool. Another opportunity to catch up with Hugh. And another chance at seeing St George's Hall, and the Anglican cathedral. I left home early on Friday, read a master's thesis on the train, and reached Liverpool in time to join the Liverpudlian geography crew having an after-work pint. Very nice! And after that I got to see Hugh's new house - quite an improvement. And quite near the Three Graces. If you live in Liverpool anyway, you may as well be a stone's throw from the best bit!

The next day we did the tourist thing again. We AGAIN failed to get into St George's hall, but we visited the Walker Art Gallery, which was nice, and we saw the Catholic Cathedral (which I didn't like), and finally managed to enter the Anglican Cathedral. It was a nice day! Nice weather too, for most of the day at least. We also tried some pubs, wine bars, and a restaurant. And we had plenty of time to catch up! A lot had changed in the meantime. Next time in York again!

St George's Hall - from the outside. The only side we got to see...

The inside of the Anglican Cathedral

In a wine bar, after all the touristy activities